STORNOWAY
A whistlestop tour of the islands begins in Stornoway
The Western Isles, Outer Hebrides, Long Island – the islands of the Lewis, Harris, Uists, Barra and Eriskay and myriad of other small uninhabited islands off the far North West of Scotland are remote wild and unique.
At 200 miles long from top to tip there is much to see and do in these islands which boast a cornucopia of culture, entertainment and special places to tempt the eyes of visitors to these shores.
We will start our tour in Stornoway the ‘capital’ of the Outer Hebrides – although it is the administrative and commercial centre of the Isles many islanders would argue that there own ‘capitals’ Port of Ness, Leverburgh, Benbecula or Castlebay are just as interesting to visit and enjoy.
However as the main transport links travel to Stornoway then it is apt that our tour begins here.
Stornoway is a vibrant town
Stornoway (Sjornavagr – old Norse name) is a vibrant town of around 10,000 inhabitants, it picturesque harbour curls around the
town, alerting visitors to the fishing past of this port – although the industry is much diminished these days. Also adding to the town’s prettiness is Lews Castle which perches above the harbour and nestles in magnificent wooded grounds which are open to the public all year round.
Many walking pathways trace different routes around the grounds, which are also home to Lews Castle college, the creed river, a watermill, the Woodlands café and popular music venue as well as a golf course and clubhouse.
If you take the walking route to the highest point you will reach Gallows Hill, where in times gone by unfortunately those who broke the law ended up hanging high from a gibbet.
Another landmark of the grounds is Lady Matheson’s Memorial at Cuddy Point which was restored a few years ago and was placed in a specially designed platform home – it is a popular backdrop for local brides and grooms to have their weddings pictures taken.
An interesting point to note at the Memorial is the carving of poppy heads in the sculpture this is to show how Sir James Matheson made his fortune from the opium trade – not something acceptable in the 21st century but perfectly fine in the 19th.
Lews Castle has many tales to tell
Lews Castle has many tales to tell about the history of Lewis.
The site has been closely associated with
the proprietors (‘lairds’) of the island since the 17th century. From the Mackenzies of Seaforth (1610-1844), to the Mathesons (1844-1918) and the brief but dramatic years of Lord Leverhulme (1918-1923).
The Mackenzies of Kintail aquired ownership of Lewis in 1610 with the consent of James VI. By the 1680’s Lord Seaforth had established his island residence (Seaforth Lodge) on the Gearraidh Chruaidh, an 
area of rough sheiling ground on the west side of Stornoway harbour.
Parts of the Seaforth Lodge were retained in the transformation of this relatively modest house into Sir James Matheson’s ‘castle’ in 1845. The Castle unfortunately is not open to the public, as it has fallen into disrepair however plans are being proposed to bring the Castle back into public life as a hotel and museum.
Hebridean Celtic Festival
The grounds really come into their own during the highlight of the summer calendar when the Hebridean Celtic Festival comes to town for four days in mid-July.
A huge marquee then graces the Castle lawn to provide the venue for some fantastic acts such as the Saw Doctors, Proclaimers and Runrig amongst others.
Many Leosachs (people who live in Lewis) also travel to the town for work purposes; the main hospital, Council administration, ferry
terminal, offices as well as shops, pubs, sporting and cultural facilities are located here.
At the moment the town is undergoing a bit of a makeover thanks to funding from the government for a regeneration package this has taken the shape of restoration to some of the older buildings.
Completed projects included the spotlight streets which light up underneath your feet at night and the ‘Compass’ the seating area outside Mackays which is inspired by navigation and Gaelic
culture with the 16 points of the compass around its perimeter to its ‘sail’ featuring an extract from the Gaelic poem ‘Air an Aiseig gu Leodhas’ its design pays homage to Stornoway’s maritime heritage and the importance of the Gaelic language to the culture of the Isles.
Stornoway’s maritime heritage
The town’s port heritage is also demonstrated in the statues of the Herring girls at South beach and Perceval Road car parks marking
the industry which brought prosperity to the town in the early part of the 20th century. Facades on some of the buildings have under gone restoration including the iconic Stornoway Town Hall which
dates from 1910 and has recently had its scaffolding stripped away to reveal the full glory of its ‘wash and brush up’ work.
However there is some controversy over some of the work planned for inside the building as a strong protest has been voiced over changes to the balcony and stage areas.
History in its architecture
Other historic buildings of note in the town centre are Martin’s Memorial Church on the corner of Francis Street and Church Street which has also recently undergone a makeover to the inside making it more adaptable and more comfortable for worship.
St Peter’s at the top of Francis Street is also worthy of a visit this intimate church has a great sense of history in its architecture. Across from Martin’s Memorial Church is the An Lanntair Arts Centre which is a fantastic exhibition space, music venue, theatre and cinema complex and a favourite lunchtime hang out for locals.
A little further away from the town centre another well loved landmark is the old clock tower saved from the original Nicolson Institute it is now separate from the secondary school and takes pride of place on Sandwick Road and dominates a leisure area for youngsters.
Another eye catching landmark a mile outside of town is the Lewis War Memorial a tower to commemorate the losses of World War I
it was unveiled in 1924 and in 1958 further plaques were placed to note the islands losses of young men in the Second World War a
memorial crescent is also now part of this complex.
But it is not all heritage and culture on offer in Stornoway there is a great selection of shops on Cromwell street featuring local produce and crafts.
Keeping you entertained
And at night the bars and venues around town offer plenty of live music to keep you entertained.
If you are feeling a little more activity than flexing your credit card then there many activities on offer at the Lewis Sports Centre which features a swimming pool, games hall, squash courts, gym and climbing wall and spa facilities. There is also a large running track with football pitch alongside.
Transport links from the town centre are excellent with bus services leaving from the central depot
regularly to all parts of the Lewis and Harris.
The ferry terminal is also only a few minutes walk from the town centre and Stornoway airport is a few miles outside of town making Stornoway a great base of operations for a wider tour of the islands.
Remembering Stornoway’s Herring Girls
When the West Coast herring season was at its height large numbers of Island women would congregate in Stornoway to await the arrival in harbour of the fleet. At that time, it would not have been unusual to observe the women exchanging local news on the town’s streets whilst busily knitting sundry garments for themselves. When not at work in the herring yards, the women were usually bare-headed and wore distinctive knitted shoulder-wraps or shawls.
Another essential item of wear were “luideagan” – strips of rag made from old flour sacks – which were wrapped around the fingers. These helped to protect them from the razor-sharp knives that were used to gut and clean the fish. They were, however, less effective at protecting them from the salt and brine which penetrated the skin, often causing painful sores.
During the months of May and June the herring girls or clann nighean an iasgaich, as they were affectionately known, would travel as far north as Shetland to find employment in the bustling herring yards. In late September they would return home for a short while before many would continue down south to England for the winter fishing.
In 1913 the Fishery Officer based in Stornoway reported that in May and June of that year, 2400 women had left for the herring ports of Shetland and the east coast of Scotland. The fact that they were usually referred to as girls, rather than women, was quite appropriate as many of them initially left home at about sixteen years of age.