HARRIS
Harris – unique and spectacular
The Isle of Harris – despite the name it is not technically an island – but certainly this region of the Western Isles has its own unique character and landscape that is quite distinct from Lewis.
From soaring hills to magnificent beaches Harris boasts some of the most scenic landscapes the archipelago has to offer.
If your tour has started in Stornoway to travel to Harris you must take the A859 from Stornoway and around 36 miles south you will arrive in Tarbert the main village of Harris and ferry port for onward travel to Skye.
Heading away from Stornoway you will pass the Lewis Karting Centre on your left and further on you will travel by three wind turbines – one of the many renewable energy projects being proposed for the islands.
Some of the villages you will encounter on your journey down the ‘spine’ of Lewis to Harris are Leurbost, which has a small garage to fill your petrol tank, it is also at Leurbost where you can turn off if you wish to tour the west side of the island.
Following Leurbost you will come to the village of Laxay before journeying through one of the longest villages in the Western Isles – Balallan. Keep an eye out when passing through Balallan for signs for Habost, which you can take to visit the scenic east side of Lewis at Lemreway.
A small bridge at Bowglass is where you officially enter Harris – a small plaque in Gaelic is placed underneath the bridge marking the boundary – quite unobtrusive – if you don’t know it’s there you will certainly miss it.
Conquering the Clisham
A more imposing signpost that the Isle of Lewis is now behind you is the spectacular Clisham range standing at almost 800 metres.
This ‘Corbett’ (peaks between 2,500 and 3,000 feet) is the highest the Western Isles has to offer and many locals and visitors make a trek up to the peak of the hills to enjoy the magnificent views from its apex.
The easiest ascent of the Clisham starts from the highest point of the A859 road between Tarbert and Ardvourlie (Aird a’ Mhulaidh), and climbs its broad southern shoulder.
A longer and more varied expedition starts at a bridge over the Scaladale River (Abhainn Scaladail) near Ardvourlie, from where the minor summit of Tomnabhal (552 metres (1,811 ft)) can be tackled before taking on the challenge of the Clisham.
Many taking this option continue west then north along the ridge, taking in the summits of Mulla-Fo-Deas (743 metres (2,438 ft)), Mulla-Fo-Thuath (720 metres (2,362 ft)) and Mullach an Langa (614 metres (2,014 ft)), thus completing a round known as the ‘Clisham Horseshoe’.
Discover the delights of Tarbert
The village of Tarbert is a bustling Harris village boasting two hotels, tourist information point, a tearoom, bank, a Harris tweed shop and the ferry port for onward travel to Skye
The name Tarbert – like many placenames in the Western Isles – comes from the Norse – ‘Tairbeart’ meaning draw-boat.
The village lies on the shores of Loch Tarbert, and South Harris avoids becoming an island by just a few hundred yards of land over which the Vikings would drag their longboats into West Loch to avoid a more long winded sail around the Sound of Harris.
The port at Tarbert may be viewed as ‘a back door entry’ to Lewis and Harris, but this route is becoming increasingly busy, especially due to the demand from visitors following the introduction of a travel subsidy (RET) which lowered the cost of travel to the Western Isles.
Taking the bridge to Scalpay
A few miles from Tarbert is the island of Scalpay which became more accessible in 1998 when a bridge was built to Harris. Scalpay is two miles long and one mile wide
The white and red-banded lighthouse, Eilean Glas, which takes its name from Glas Island, is situated on the east side of Scalpay and stands at 30 metres tall.
It was one of the first four lighthouses to be built in Scotland and the first in the Western Isles.
The original building was completed in 1789, with the current tower put in place in 1824. The lighthouse was converted in 1978 to automatic operation at a cost of £83,565. The old lens and machine have been handed over to the Royal Scottish Museum for public exhibition.
Scalpay also became one of the many refuges for Bonnie Prince Charlie when he hid out on the island in 1746 following his defeat at the battle of Culloden. His ‘home’ for four days was at house which was until recently the Free Church Manse.
Beaches – the jewels of Harris
Harris boasts some of the most magnificent beaches in the Western Isles – certainly they must be considered this area’s ‘crown jewels’ and the Kohinoor of these must be Luskentyre, with its golden white stretch of sands it is the perfect place for whiling away a summer’s afternoon.
Once you have explored Tarbert head out of the village taking a left, again on to the A589, this time heading for Leverburgh; Luskentyre beach is signposted from the main road on the right.
Turn off and follow the single track road until its end – be careful it is a twisting turning road and can be busy on a summer’s day as families come and go from the beach.
At the end of the road there is a large car park and toilets before you walk down to the beach itself – a glorious stretch of sand – perfect for family recreation, however
Luskentyre’s size means that this beach never feels busy.
For more Caribbean-like beaches travel on from Luskentyre to Horgabost, which is smaller but also offers ease of access and a better sense of seclusion, however there are no toilets at this beach so you will need to cross your legs!
The list of beaches in South Harris stretches on at Seilebost, Scarista – which also boasts a nine-hole golf course once played by Nick Faldo – Niabost and Traigh Mhorr.
Exploring Leverburgh and Rodel
Leverburgh is the second largest village in Harris after Tarbert and is also a port for the ferry heading to Berneray, North Uist – the journey only takes 40 minutes and a day trip to the North of Uist is popular option for visitors, although of course you may decide to stay longer.
Travelling a few miles outside of Leverburgh is the most southern of the Harris villages – Rodel – a picturesque spot which boasts the magnificent medieval church of St Clement’s.
Built around 1500 by the Macleods of Dunvegan and Harris it is easy to feel the half millennium of history seeping out of the walls of this church.
One of the main sights of St Clement’s are the three tombs depicting knights in armour. One of these is the tomb of Alisdair Crotach, the 8th Chief of the MacLeods of Dunvegan, who had it sculpted for himself 19 years before his death in 1547.
It is decorated with well-preserved panels containing intricate carvings of apostles, angels, a sun, the virgin and child, a hunting scene, a castle and the devil himself weighing out the souls of sinners
The tower of the church is also very interesting and visitors can explore the three ‘floors’, but steep steps and the dark, narrow passage means you do have to watch your footing carefully.