Tour The Isles

Westside of Lewis walks and beaches

The islands’ greatest attraction lies in their remote and rural setting and the west side of Lewis has some of the finest sites, walks and beaches the islands have to offer.

The west coast of Lewis is a treasure trove of cultural sites for the visitor to the islands with prehistoric remains, blackhouses, monoliths and a broch just some of the sights that must be seen.

This region of Lewis also offers spectacularly beautiful scenery and in the main deserted beaches.

Top of the itinery for most visitors to Lewis and the jewel in the crown of the west side is the Callanish Stones

Callanish stones more ancient than Stonehenge

More ancient than Stonehenge the main circle of stones at Calanais I are an arrangement of fifty monoliths with a cyst at the centre.  The largest stone at the centre reaches 16 feet high and weighs around 5.5 tonnes – quite a weight for ancient islanders manoeuvre into an upright position!

The main avenue is a double row of stones stretching out from the inner circle of 13 monoliths to the north side of the complex and it was believed they were situated to mark particular points in the lunar calendar.

Visitors are able to get up close and personal to the stones – and can touch and examine the monoliths, which are made from the beautifully marked Lewisian gneiss.

There is also a visitor centre and tearoom at the site which has an all-year- round exhibition to inform visitors about the stones’construction and their significance.

Callanish is particular busy at the summer solstice when many visitors gather at the stones, with music and merry making the focus of the evening, enjoying the site in the almost never-ending summer sunlight well into the early hours of the morning.

However the ancient stones of Calanais I is not the monolithic site on the west side, two lesser stone circles at the nearby Calanais II (a 20 stone construction) and III (a 10 stone layout) can also be examined.

Step into Gerrannan blackhouse village

If you are a culture vulture the west side of Lewis has much to offer and how islanders lived from long ago is also housed in this region of the island.

Step into Gearrannan Blackhouse village in Carloway or the Arnol Blackhouse Museum and you are instantly transported back to the 1800s when these type of houses were commonplace throughout the islands.

The typical blackhouse was a long, rectangular building forty to fifty feet in length, with an interior width of ten to twelve feet.

All the corners in the outside walls were rounded, and great care was taken to ensure that the outer walls, which were of undressed stone, had a slight slant to allow the rain to drip off and not seep into the interior.

The thatched roof was a fundamental characteristic of the blackhouse. Thatching was a family or community activity, with the skills being passed from generation to generation.

Many generations lived together, all entirely Gaelic speaking. By day the blackhouse was the centre for the domestic jobs of the women, activities such as mending clothes, preparing food and milking the cow.

Time was also spent outdoors when taking home the peats, gutting and curing. The men were usually involved in outdoor activities such as tending the sheep, cultivating the croft, fishing and repairing anything from fishing nets to the wall of a house.

The evening was the time when the whole family assembled and stories were told or people would drop in for a ceilidh.

These days you can still have a ceilidh at Gearrannan village as some of the blackhouses are hired out for parties of people, whether that is for local groups of children learning more about the life experienced by the people who lived there, or for small groups celebrating special events.

Dun carloway fortified broch

From how islanders used to live to how an island chiefs may have lived we have to take our tour to Dun Carloway (Dun Charlabhaigh in Gaelic)

This construction is a fortified residence or broch overlooking Loch Roag and dating from around 300 BC.

The broch stands at the top of a small hill – a sensible location for defence – and is about ten metres in height with walls four metres thick.

It is easy to image that this building was owned by a local chieftain – someone who wielded significant power in the area.

If you are heading out for a family day out in Lewis and want to do a spot of beachcombing with the kids the picturesque coves and beaches at Dalbeag and Dalmore are ideal.

Dalbeag may be small compared with other island beaches but it is perfectly formed, with great shelter from the winds off the sea and great rock pools and picnic spots to discover.

If you would like a little more space then head to Dalmore beach its near neighbour.

Dalmore is a draw for local surfers and visitors who enjoy this sport are also keen to experience the waves at this beach.

However strong currents abound off the coast of Lewis so great care must be taken when surfing check out local conditions and tides before heading out.

If being active is an important part of your visit and surfing is not to your taste there are plenty of walking and cycling routes across the west side just waiting to be explored with many linking up the sights of interest.

After visiting the Gearrannan blackhouse village why not park up your car and head off on the coastal route to Dalmore bay.  The distance is around 4km and usually takes about two hours but it’s worth the effort due to the stunning views and the chance to spot wildlife during your trek.

Callanish II and III

Following your visit to the Callanish stones why not take the opportunity to visit the two other monolith sites at Calanais II and III on foot.

There is a circular 3.5km route which will take you past both sites and return you to your car at the Callanish visitor centre.

From the centre follow the coast turning right out of the visitors’ car park before taking a southerly route along a cul-de-sac to Calanais II.

After your visit to this site turn left to head to Calanais III where you can again pick up the path for the A858 which will return you to the visitor centre car park.

If cycling is preferable and you are fit enough why not take a day trip to visit the Callanish stones.

This journey – some of which is over unspoiled moorland – is a 30 mile route stretching out from Stornoway.

To head out turn left at the roundabout following the signs for Harris on the A859.

Just outside of town watch out for a turning on the right for the Pentland Road.  Once on this road you will travel for around 10 minutes before coming to a Y junction, take the road for Acha Mor.

When you reach the village of Acha Mor turn right onto the main road for Calanais, the A858 and follow the signs to the stones.

For the return journey cycle down towards the main road from the stones back to the A858.  Follow the signs for Breasclete and at the village turn right heading back to the Pentland Road.

At the Y junction at Acha Mor – turn right and follow the road back to the outskirts of Stornoway.